Riddle and Finns The Lanes

Amazing seafood” is the reason for choosing this bijou eatery, tucked away in Brighton’s maze-like South Lanes. It’s a tiny space with white tiled walls, an open kitchen and a wet fish counter; the atmosphere is “fantastic”, and there’s an unmistakably glamorous edge to proceedings thanks to crystal chandeliers and high marble tables. Bowls of New England clam and bacon chowder might open the show, oysters are served with ‘foaming tankards of black velvet’ andextravagant platters of fruits de mer feature whole crab or lobster. Otherwise, the kitchen sends out everything from grilled octopus with smoked paprika and ceps to squid and shellfish risotto, fish pie or pan-fried halibut with polenta, aubergine caviar and piquillo pepper sauce. Veggies get a few token offerings, although committed carnivores receive short shrift. The excellent little wine list gives plenty of space to fizz, while service is speedy and well versed. Readers also confirm that the daily set menus are “always great value”. Note: this branch doesn’t take bookings, but you can always reserve a table at R&F’s beachfront offshoot.

Another stalwart of Brighton’s Lanes, Riddle and Finns has been a fixture of the Jewellery Quarter since 2006, welcoming seafood lovers of all ages. In a city that boasts lots of great seafood and restaurants, Riddle and Finns has always been a busy favourite, combining outstanding locally sourced shellfish, fruit de mers platters and oysters with a great location just minutes from the seafront.

The restaurant operates a no bookings policy, holding all tables for walk-ins and running a first come first serve list when busy. You can join an online waitlist as well, so you don’t have to queue in person.

Gleaming white butchers tiles and terracotta floor greet you as you walk in, and marble table tops give Riddle and Finns a real Champagne and oyster house vibe. Over the bar you’ll find a blackboard with daily specials, as well as a handful of Champagne cocktails and fruits de mer for the day.

Oysters are a particular speciality here - the restaurant offers a choice of at least four at any one time, as well as a variety of hot and cold toppings, including ponzu and chilli, pomegranate mignonette granita, and a tempura oyster with wasabi mayonnaise.

After that, dive into some fresh sashimi, tuna tartare tostada, or a New England-style clam chowder, before choosing between a range of crustacean and fish dishes, including the likes of potted shrimp with toast, roasted halibut with lobster dumpling, or a whole grilled lobster with garlic butter.

Naturally, the Champagne list is extensive too, with classic and vintage choices from a range of respected Champagne houses such as Bollinger, Tattinger and Dom Perignon, as well as English sparkling from Nyetimber.