To say Lonzo is ‘off the beaten track’ is a gross understatement, but when you’re done weaving through the backstreets of London Fields, a stunning salumeria, restaurant, wine bar and bakery awaits. A communal table occupies the ground floor of this former industrial space, with a similar set up on the mezzanine for private events. The walls are lined with wine bottles and eight varieties of salami – which can be sliced in front of you and served with three types of freshly made bread. Try the air-cured beef silverside for something rich and dark, the nape for salty sweetness and the wild mushroom and truffle because… well, why wouldn’t you? There are Neal’s Yard Dairy cheeses too, but the real fun lies with the small plates. Broad bean and chicory crostini make an ideal amuse bouche with a glass of white – ask staff for recommendations. Roasted aubergine with burnt rosemary butter and burrata served melting on top disappeared all too quickly, but the gnocchi with wild mushrooms – two large umami-rich quenelles on sautéed girolles – was the star. Workshops and tasting events are held on Wednesdays. It’s rare to find something that’s both daring and traditional, but Lonzo is certainly both.