Tradition rules at this Manchester institution (opened in 1872) that recently crossed the Pennines to find a new home in the Leeds financial district in the grade-II listed, former Pearl Assurance building. Pork chops served with apple mash and port wine sauce feature, as does steak and chips, liver and onions, steak and kidney pudding, sea trout, lemon sole and a smattering of veggie dishes. Best of all, go for Sam’s homemade corned beef hash. Forget bad memories of the tinned stuff, this is slow-cooked, marinated brisket mixed with onion, potato and lashings of cream, topped off with bacon and a poached egg – off the calorie scale, but bang on the money.