Launched by Sheikh Mahammad back in 1954, this family-run Indian is “still in good nick and still busy”. Inside, the small, well-heeled interior has a polished art-deco feel, with several intimate dining areas and a spectacular frescoed ceiling depicting chubby cherubs – although the kitchen’s distinctive modern take on regional cuisine does most of the talking. The seasonal menu is pitched at moneyed locals, with starters such as vermicelli-rolled coriander pancakes stuffed with paneer, red onion and green chilli suggesting that the kitchen has lofty ambitions. Elsewhere, tandoori lamb chops served with pickled ginger is an intriguing departure from the norm, as is venison pasanda – simmered with Kashmiri spices and accompanied by crispy straw potatoes. Desserts combine east and west to good effect – the white and dark chocolate samosa with vanilla ice cream is well worth a whirl.