The Leeds branch of City Café sits at the heart of the city’s cultural and shopping quarter, with views of the regenerated canal from its terrace. The clean-cut, modern dining room certainly meets most expectations, with flexible menus offering good-value set lunches and dinners. Chef Daniel Benefer wins over the crowds with sophisticated starters from the à la carte menu, such as braised Yorkshire beef raviolo with a fricassée of wild mushrooms and tarragon foam, and mains such as fillet of mackerel with lobster mash and peas three ways; he is equally talented when it comes to more prosaic offerings such as steaks from the grill or rhubarb crumble. It’s all supported by adept service and a solid wine list.